Day 1: The Rhinos of Ol Pejeta Conservancy

When planning a trip to Kenya, I booked my safari with a local Kenyan operator, and the first step was meeting John, the guide from the agency. He would accompany me throughout the journey. The first stop on the itinerary was Ol Pejeta Conservancy, located about four hours from Nairobi by car. However, the journey took longer than expected. After two hours, one of the van’s tires popped. The spare tire wasn’t the ideal one for safaris, so we had to stop by a mechanic in the town of Nanyuki. Once the problem was fixed, we continued toward the reserve entrance.

Ol Pejeta is a non-profit conservation area dedicated to wildlife preservation and generating income through wildlife tourism, which is reinvested into conservation and community development. The conservancy is home to the highest population of black rhinos in East Africa. Additionally, they are running a project aimed at preventing the extinction of the northern white rhino.

I entered the reserve through the Rongai Gate. After all the delays, I barely had enough time to visit the enclosure housing the last two northern white rhinos: Fatu and Najin. Learning about their story and significance was moving, and it felt good to support the organization’s work financially.

In the late afternoon, I went on my first safari of the trip. I spotted my first zebras, giraffes, elephants, and even a white rhino with its calf. The highlight came just before sunset when my guide located a group of lionesses with their cubs. There were no other vehicles around, and it was a magical experience to observe them interacting with one another.

Where I stayed in Ol Pejeta?

I stayed at Ol Pejeta Stables, located within the conservancy. This simple and affordable accommodation allows for more extended safari hours, with a price of $55 per night, including full board. It was a great option for the first night of the trip.

Day 2: From Ol Pejeta Conservancy to Samburu National Reserve

I begin the second day of my trip to Kenya with a safari through the savannah of Ol Pejeta Conservancy. Starting the safari early is key to seeing more animals and capturing the best light. I enjoy stunning views of Mount Kenya, with a group of white rhinos walking in front of me. I also spot a black rhino hidden among the vegetation, and the zebras, elephants, and giraffes are more than happy to pose for photos.

By mid-morning, as the heat begins to rise, it’s time to continue heading north toward Samburu National Reserve. As we approach, the landscape becomes increasingly arid and desert-like. I even spot herders tending to camels along the way.

I arrive at Samburu by noon and head straight to the accommodation. During such heat, animals are rarely visible, and the best times for safaris are early morning and late afternoon.

I begin the safari at 4:30 p.m., discovering the stunning landscape of the reserve. In the arid and semi-desert terrain of Samburu, the only source of water is the Ewaso Nyiro River. However, by mid-February, after months of drought, the river is completely dry. Only elephants are capable of finding hidden water holes beneath the earth. The iconic tamarind palms rise above the sparse vegetation and terrain.

After observing a group of elephants walking along the dry riverbed, my guide suggests we focus on finding the “Special 5” of Samburu. These are five species found only in this reserve in Kenya: the Grevy’s zebra, reticulated giraffe, Somali ostrich, giraffe antelope, and oryx. I’m fortunate enough to spot all of them and end the day with an unforgettable sight: a group of three cheetahs feeding on a freshly caught Thomson’s gazelle.

Where I stayed in Samburu National Reserve?

I stayed at Samburu Riverside Camp, an eco-friendly camp inside the Samburu Reserve. The camp offers tents with beds and private bathrooms, and its great location made it a very affordable choice.

Day 3: Samburu National Reserve

Sleeping inside Samburu Reserve, separated from the savannah only by the thin fabric of my tent, is an incredible experience. While lying in bed, I can hear elephants, alarm calls from monkeys, and even the roar of a lion.

Before the sun rises, I’m already in the vehicle, ready to start the safari in Samburu Reserve. I dream of spotting one of the famous leopards, which often walk along the dusty tracks of the park. Just a few minutes into the safari, we find tracks of this elusive cat. We follow them for a while, but they soon disappear, likely from a few hours earlier.

During the morning safari, I see elephants around the Ewaso Nyiro River, along with a large group of reticulated giraffes. As the heat intensifies, we return to the accommodation for a rest.

At 4:30 p.m., I head out for the afternoon safari. We have about two hours before darkness sets in, but they are the most intense hours. We drive along different tracks through the park’s dry savannah, hoping to spot a big cat. Unfortunately, no luck. However, the sunset within Samburu Reserve is always breathtaking. The landscape is simple and minimalist but filled with beauty.

Day 4: From Samburu to Lake Naivasha

During the final safari in Samburu, the big cats remain elusive. Still, I can’t get enough of exploring the reserve and observing the other animals. Since my arrival in Samburu, I’ve been fascinated by the small dik-dik antelopes. I take the opportunity to photograph a couple near the trail.

Around 10 a.m., we leave the national reserve and head towards Lake Naivasha. The journey is long, about seven hours by car. We stop briefly at Thomson’s Falls, the highest waterfall in the country.

I arrive at the lake around 4 p.m. and immediately take part in the main activity here: a boat safari. This small boat ride on the lake allows us to see abundant birdlife, hippos, and also some zebras and water antelopes. Many locals offer this tour, and I book it through Lake Naivasha Crescent Camp for $30.

During the ride, I spot a wide variety of birds, including pelicans, kingfishers, African bee-eaters, and majestic African fish eagles. We also pass close to some groups of hippos, and I’m amazed by a tiny five-day-old calf. The boat also takes us to Crescent Island, but we don’t disembark. Crescent Island is famous for its walking safaris among zebras, giraffes, and other herbivores.

Where I stayed in Lake Naivasha?

I stayed at Dovenest Lodge, located about 20 minutes from Lake Naivasha. It’s a good budget option for those looking to stay outside the park, offering a comfortable but basic stay.

Day 5: From Lake Naivasha to Masai Mara National Reserve

Traveling to Kenya independently also means being prepared for the unexpected. The roads are often in poor condition, the vehicles are usually old, and mechanical issues are common. In my case, nothing serious happens, but the vehicle starts to malfunction, and we need to visit a mechanic.

This results in spending over four hours at two different mechanics before the issue is resolved. Although the drive from Lake Naivasha to Masai Mara is only about three hours, I don’t arrive at the reserve entrance until 6 p.m.

Unfortunately, I miss an afternoon safari in Masai Mara, but there are still plenty of days to enjoy this incredible area. Fortunately, the park rangers allow us to enter the Masai Mara after 6 p.m., from Sekenani Gate to Talek Gate, where my accommodation is located. Watching the sunset colors over the savannah, with the silhouettes of trees, zebras, and topis, is magical—a preview of the great scenes the Masai Mara will offer.

Where I stayed in Masai Mara?

I stayed at Masai Mara Crocodile Camp, just 2 minutes from the Talek Gate. This camp offers great views of the Talek River and the Mara plains, with simple tents and a bathroom.

Day 6: First Day of Safari in Masai Mara

I begin the first safari in Masai Mara National Reserve, one of the best places in the world to see big cats like lions, leopards, and cheetahs. With a little luck and a good eye, it’s possible to spot them.

After seeing hyenas, jackals, wildebeests, and zebras, we spot a huge male lion walking through a meadow. It’s an amazing moment. Following the lion’s path, we discover a group of lions and small cubs nearby. It’s the Rongai pride.

After spending some time observing the cubs, about three or four months old, and the adult lionesses, I continue exploring the Masai Mara. Not long after, we come across a group of vehicles parked near a tree, which is often a sign of something interesting. There’s a leopard resting among some bushes.

I end the day in the best possible way: by watching a pair of cheetahs. I feel incredibly fortunate to have seen all three of the big cats during my first day in Masai Mara.

Day 7: Second Day of Safari in Masai Mara

On the second day in Masai Mara, instead of doing a full-day safari, I opt for a morning and an afternoon safari. I want to be in the park during the hours when animals are most active. During midday, the heat is intense, and the animals are less active.

The morning safari is unforgettable. I begin by spotting a cheetah lit by the early morning sun, followed by an hour observing the young lions of the Rongai pride. To top it off, I see a leopard mid-morning. I also photograph a large group of elephants gradually approaching the vehicle.

In the afternoon, I head directly to the area where the lion pride has been. They’re still there. The hours pass quickly as I watch them.

At sunset, we’re surprised by a heavy rainstorm. When it rains, Masai Mara’s tracks become a slippery mess. It’s essential to be in a 4×4 with good tires.

Day 8: Third Day in Masai Mara

The main attraction on the final day in Masai Mara is the lions. After watching the sunrise surrounded by the full Rongai pride (including the two males), I suggest to my guide that we explore new areas. I’m eager to see more of Masai Mara.

After half an hour of driving, we find two lions feeding on a freshly caught zebra. It’s a raw and powerful sight.

Before stopping at midday, we see a wide variety of animals on our way back to the accommodation: zebras, topis, Thomson’s gazelles, elephants, giraffes, and several Derby elands (the largest antelope species in the world).

In the afternoon, we return to the same area where we saw the lions in the morning. Once again, I spend a lot of time photographing the young cubs of the Rongai pride. I also get to see the two male lions that hunted the zebra earlier.

Day 9: From Masai Mara to Lake Nakuru National Park

All the days in Masai Mara have been spectacular, but it’s time to leave the reserve. I have just a few final hours of safari. As my guide drives, I notice there are fewer animals. Overnight rain has caused them to scatter and move to new areas. We’re also informed that the Rongai lions have left the spot where we saw them.

My guide suggests we head toward the border with Serengeti to see what we can find. Surprisingly, there are still few zebras or topis. I only see a few Thomson’s gazelles, a couple of hyenas, and some birds. Just when it seems like it’s going to be an unproductive day, I spot a small figure moving through the grass. It’s a serval, one of Masai Mara’s most elusive cats. We get a brief glimpse of it before it disappears into the bushes.

With this incredible sighting, we head toward Sekenani Gate to leave Masai Mara. From there, it’s about a four-hour drive to Lake Nakuru. Tomorrow will be the day to explore that national park.

Where I stayed in Lake Nakuru?

I stayed at Lake Nakuru Lodge, which is located inside the national park. The lodge offers stunning views of Lake Nakuru and features a small waterhole right in front, attracting various wildlife. The rooms are comfortable, and the facilities are well-equipped, making it a perfect base for exploring the park.

Day 10: Lake Nakuru National Park

Lake Nakuru National Park is located in the southern part of the Great Rift Valley. The park’s emblem is its lake, which is home to thousands of flamingos. The number of flamingos has decreased in recent years, but it’s still an impressive sight.

The park is also one of the best places in Kenya to see both white and black rhinos, as well as Rothschild giraffes. Lions and leopards also live here, but they’re harder to spot.

I start the safari early in the morning, entering through Nderit Gate. I can already hear the loud calls of flamingos. We approach the car, and from there, I witness a beautiful sunrise. Then, we begin driving through the acacia forest, searching for rhinos, giraffes, and maybe a big cat. I’m lucky enough to see two black rhinos and three giraffes. A little further on, my guide finds lion tracks. We stay alert and move slowly, and just a few minutes later, I spot a young lion lying on a rock. While I photograph it, three lionesses appear. It’s an unexpected but amazing sight in this national park.

In the afternoon, when the temperature drops, we continue the safari. I see more giraffes, zebras, and buffaloes. The highlight, though, is a white rhino with her calf.

Day 11: From Lake Nakuru to Nairobi

The last few hours of my independent trip to Kenya are here. The final safari of this memorable journey. As we enter the park with the first light of day, our first stop is where we saw the lions the previous day. As soon as we arrive, we see an adult male lion disappearing behind a small hill. We’re only a few minutes late.

We continue moving through the area, and while I’m photographing a giraffe, a new lion appears. It’s an imposing male, walking calmly down the track. He’s headed toward where we saw the other male lion. We follow him slowly as he moves majestically.

Once we lose sight of the lion, we head to some parts of the park I haven’t seen yet. We drive along the lakeside track, where I see a variety of birds, including an African monitor lizard eating a fish.

At the end of the trip, just as we’re about to leave the park, I see the scene I was most hoping to see in Lake Nakuru National Park: two lions lounging atop a massive tree.

With that, the safari comes to an end, and it’s just the drive back to Nairobi—about 3 hours and 15 minutes by car.